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didn't come out exactly the way I wanted it to.

 
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somepisceschic
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Joined: 13 Dec 2016
Posts: 85
Location: GEORGIA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 10:26 pm    Post subject: didn't come out exactly the way I wanted it to. Reply with quote

so I made this one for myself.

i think i have learned my lesson about trying to pour and work at the same time. the tip was suppose to be about an inch clear and it has a herkimer diamond there

the next layer, white

and the third layer black. for some reason, i changed my mind and chose a gold powder but it's way too dark of a gold for me. i used pearl x. i didn't let the first layer cure long enough imo.

i can say the last layer came out perfect again as there's no metal sticking out. after the gold layer cured enough, i layed a think later of brass shavings and some little copper nuggets and mixed in some black powder, crushed quartz, and activated charcoal and it came out smooth.

the stones i used are showing through the white which is what i didn't want. and the metal is showing through the gold. i didnt' want that either. is there a way to change the color?

[img]20170417_160720 by Dee Neal, on Flickr[/img]

[img]20170417_160727 by Dee Neal, on Flickr[/img]
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diogenes
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 12:11 pm    Post subject: I kinda like it. Reply with quote

I kinda like it. It reminds me of a snowtopped mountain.
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somepisceschic
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 1:42 pm    Post subject: Re: I kinda like it. Reply with quote

diogenes wrote:
I kinda like it. It reminds me of a snowtopped mountain.


Thanks. Lol now that you mention it. It kind of reminds me of that too
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Ruth
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes if you leave the piece for awhile- long enough to let go of your expectations- you may come back to it and like it just fine Very Happy

By the way, when the second layer leaks like that it can mean that you waited too long after pouring the first, and it shrank as it cured, allowing the second layer to flow around the surface of the first layer.

Can't tell if that or if your second layer actually mixed with the first layer. The first layer, a very small quantity,will cure quite slowly. Knowing this, you can use heat to bump the cure or use a little more catalyst in the first layer.

Hope that helps.

Ruth
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somepisceschic
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Location: GEORGIA

PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ruth wrote:
Sometimes if you leave the piece for awhile- long enough to let go of your expectations- you may come back to it and like it just fine Very Happy

By the way, when the second layer leaks like that it can mean that you waited too long after pouring the first, and it shrank as it cured, allowing the second layer to flow around the surface of the first layer.

Can't tell if that or if your second layer actually mixed with the first layer. The first layer, a very small quantity,will cure quite slowly. Knowing this, you can use heat to bump the cure or use a little more catalyst in the first layer.

Hope that helps.

Ruth


Thanks. My issue is understanding curing. I know that it Can be tricky. Should it be completely hard or semi hard before the next layer?

How do I use heat to bump up the cure?

And what's catalyst? I use epoxy resin and there's resin and hardener. The instructions say to use 1:1 ratio ..so I should use more hardener?
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Ruth
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Resins: I use sylmar 41 and 3M from Home Depot. Haven't ever used the 1-1 stuff (epoxy),so I'll leave that to someone who does.

Once catalyst is added, the resin will begin to heat up and will begin to thicken. The surface will fog slightly. At this point I tilt the mold to see if the resin is firm enough to hold its shape.

When the surface is starting to fog and the resin doesn't move when I tilt the mold slightly, its ready for the next layer.

I don't know what the "tells" are for epoxy.

I use a waterproof heating pad designed for seed sprouting under the mold. Any old heating pad would probably work.

Some prefer a heat lamp.

I like a metal mold for tactical TBs and silicone molds for personal pieces.
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somepisceschic
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ruth wrote:
Resins: I use sylmar 41 and 3M from Home Depot. Haven't ever used the 1-1 stuff (epoxy),so I'll leave that to someone who does.

Once catalyst is added, the resin will begin to heat up and will begin to thicken. The surface will fog slightly. At this point I tilt the mold to see if the resin is firm enough to hold its shape.

When the surface is starting to fog and the resin doesn't move when I tilt the mold slightly, its ready for the next layer.

I don't know what the "tells" are for epoxy.

I use a waterproof heating pad designed for seed sprouting under the mold. Any old heating pad would probably work.

Some prefer a heat lamp.

I like a metal mold for tactical TBs and silicone molds for personal pieces.


Ruth thank you.

Time for experimenting.
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Sensei
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like it ! It looks like a great piece.

Pyramids with a crystal in the tip , not surrounded with metal have a bit of a different feel from ones where the crystal is submerged in the shavings. BUT, it you just drop the crystal in the resin at the tip, it touches the mold through the resin and shows like this one.

You can always paint it. Or tape off most of it and paint a straight (flat finish) black band between the white and brown layers.

But First... You may want to sand the 4 bottom edges. Like they are, they will chip Very easily and even a small chip can become a big one and mar the finish.

Then put some felt feet on so it does not mar any surface and so it is easy to pick up and put down.

If you do an ice test with this unit, you may want to put it in the refrigerator for a few hours before and after freezing. Freezing it from room temperature will freeze the resin before freezing the crystals in the tip and you may get some unwanted stress fractures. They often show on the surface. Pre and post freezing, cooling minimizes (but does not eliminate) this possibility.

Sєηѕєι
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Sensei
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually pour the next layer when the previous one has the consistency of stiff jello.

Warming the components will cause them to set up quicker. I use aluminum cans with the tops cut off. You want the resin warm to the touch, but still temperate enough to hold for a few seconds.

Using more catalyst is not a good idea and will not likely cause a quicker cure.

Sєηѕєι
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Please, share...
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somepisceschic
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 4:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you sensei.

you guys are great.
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