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cellularbliss
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Joined: 27 Jan 2013
Posts: 16
Location: Marietta, GA

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 8:56 pm    Post subject: Polishing and Finishing Reply with quote

What do you all use to polish/finish your pieces?
What do you use to make them smooth?

I tried a resin spray... doesn't work so well... finding other ways to finish my pieces!
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emlong
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Joined: 04 Sep 2008
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Location: Ozark Highlands

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best polish is a smooth mold in the first place. Polyester is difficult to polish and it has to be really cured up for weeks before it will take a polish without "dragging." It just does not really get hard enough to take a good polish. Epoxy and some of the other resins will polish better. A fresh really smooth silicone mold or a glass mold will often give a very nice finish right out of the mold, but don't handle it for a few days because it will still fingerprint.

I polish my plaques but the face coat has so much copper in it that it is copper being polished, so that will take a polish. In that case I use a spinning cotton wheel loaded with fine plastic polishing compound. You might try shellac but it is not water proof. It does adhere to most anything though and will take a high shine itself with abrasives.
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Sensei
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Light sanding when FULLY cured and clear lacquer or Resin spray.

A second casting of clear can also hide a lot of sins.

Sєηѕєι
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CreativeChi
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 6:49 am    Post subject: Re: Polishing and Finishing Reply with quote

cellularbliss wrote:
What do you all use to polish/finish your pieces?
What do you use to make them smooth?

I tried a resin spray... doesn't work so well... finding other ways to finish my pieces!


Here are a few things to ask yourself. Arrow

What is your final expected out come?

Show pieces? Smooth surface? Optically pure?

How much time are you willing to spend on a piece?

Yes as Emlong mentions it will take months for the 0.010" surface to cure. But what I have found is it never fully cures for polishing for show class optical abilities. Thus you need to remove this layer and expose the hard surface underneath. Then continue with your polishing project. Confused

Most of us here are not involved with show quality pieces, so sanding down a bit and spraying with lacquer is good enough.

Personally for me it's all or nothing. That's my programming. I'm not happy till it's done right and I pay for this in time!

Here was a 4 hour job. I pulled it out of the mold before it was done hardening and the surface was very pitted.
I don't have a picture of this.

After it was completed I managed to get optical light refection in the corner by getting a rainbow.



The underside I managed to get interior reflection and see through.



Depending on surface severity your starting grit will need to be determined.

All was sanded with silicone carbide wet type sand paper.
Your key to sanding all plastics is to keep it wet.
The same principle if you where to clay bar a car, you do it wet.

Removed surface tack with a vibrational sander with 220 wet.
Next is by hand...
320, 400, 500, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500
Then used Menzerna car polish which is a 2000 grit polish on wheel. Wet. (makes a mess)

Sealed with NuFinish auto wax. Done.
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emlong
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Posts: 7265
Location: Ozark Highlands

PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a hell of a lot of work. There is a shortcut at around the 220 grit point. True pure shellac can be used to build up a few layers. Shellac is much easier to abrade for shine than is polyester, but it is not water resistant though most show pieces don't need to be anyway. A real shellac finish made from high grade shellac flakes and alcohol dissolved by yourself make a lovely, lovely finish with a very special luster. Because alcohol is the solvent the finish dries very quickly and can usually be sanded and recoated in a couple of hours. Dried shellac is also harder than polyester, so the surface is easier to sand. I used shellac on certain of my furniture pieces when i was a professional, and always loved working with it. Shellac will pretty much stick to anything except wax. It is sometimes used as a sealer coat between oily woods and varnishes or polyurethanes that don't adhere well to oily surfaces.
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jed
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Joined: 03 Feb 2013
Posts: 28
Location: Northern Rivers AustraliaA

PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something I've tried that gives an exta shine if done correctly .
Pour some clear resin into the mold and roll it round for a minute or two covering all the inside surfaces of the mold , then pour out the excess resin and wait till it starts to gel then begin your pouring , seems to give a glazed finnish . Also I mostly prefer glass molds for a good shine .


jed
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cellularbliss
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Joined: 27 Jan 2013
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Location: Marietta, GA

PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:28 pm    Post subject: Thanks guys Reply with quote

Mine have been coming out perfectly recently. I usually don't pay too much mind for all the ones i gift and keep, since its all about the technology itself, not the way it turns out... I just like to present the best possible piece both viusually and functionally!
Thanks for all the tips!
Been making pyramids with gold, tensor coil heddekas, neodymium magnets, and lots of stones! Will post pictures soon!
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somepisceschic
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Joined: 13 Dec 2016
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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sensei wrote:
Light sanding when FULLY cured and clear lacquer or Resin spray.

A second casting of clear can also hide a lot of sins.

Sєηѕєι


How is a second clear cast done? Just putting it back in the mold and pouring over it?
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Lena
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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2017 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

somepisceschic wrote:
How is a second clear cast done? Just putting it back in the mold and pouring over it?


You put some clear catalyzed resin in to the mold and then put the piece back in Smile Can be used to forgive a lot of mistakes...

Lena
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somepisceschic
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Joined: 13 Dec 2016
Posts: 85
Location: GEORGIA

PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sensei wrote:
Light sanding when FULLY cured and clear lacquer or Resin spray.

A second casting of clear can also hide a lot of sins.

Sєηѕєι


how do you do a second casting in the same mold? do you pour first and then set it in and the resin will rise like when you sit in a tub? i tried this the other day and it went terribly wrong. the piece fit the mold perfectly and i couldn't find a way to get the resin in without making a mess and making sure everything was covered. so i took the piece out of the mold and decided to pour first but flub..... when i was mixing my resin i heated it too much to get the bubble out and as soon as i poured it, it started smoking and was hard before i could get the piece back in the mold. i was using epoxy. with this, i learned not all epoxy is created equally. the resin was very thick and it took forever to mix.
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somepisceschic
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Joined: 13 Dec 2016
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Location: GEORGIA

PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sensei wrote:
Light sanding when FULLY cured and clear lacquer or Resin spray.

A second casting of clear can also hide a lot of sins.

Sєηѕєι


sanding and clear laquer. i tried this on one piece and the sanding just scratched it up. i sprayed it and when it tried, i dunno, it didn't look smooth anymore. i was experimenting on an almost perfect piece. it was so pretty and i messed it up. i'd like to recast it to make it shiny again.
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somepisceschic
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Joined: 13 Dec 2016
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Location: GEORGIA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jed wrote:
Something I've tried that gives an exta shine if done correctly .
Pour some clear resin into the mold and roll it round for a minute or two covering all the inside surfaces of the mold , then pour out the excess resin and wait till it starts to gel then begin your pouring , seems to give a glazed finnish . Also I mostly prefer glass molds for a good shine .


jed


how do you release from a glass mold though...without breaking the glass?
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Johnnyusa
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Joined: 02 May 2016
Posts: 138
Location: Texas

PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 4:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silicon is only necessary to release from a metal mold, but not silicon or glass. In my experience. Especially if you clean the glass in a sealed bucket of acetone between pours. Using rubber chemical-resistant gloves, of course. I even clean silicon. I dont like working with dirty molds.

I just wanted to say that this $30 carbon steel rasp set works great for taking the sharp edges off pieces when they come off the mold. It has a bunch of different sized and shaped carbon rasps so you can really get into all those hard-to-reach corners the larger pieces won't let you get to. But for an hhg the larger piece works great. Its like in-sharpening a knife. The carbon steel is so strong if there is some errant metal sticking out the orgonite that is irritating you or scratching up your table, the rasp will take that metal right off almost as easily as the poly resin, which is like a knife thru butter.

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVANT-Premium-Hardened-Comfortable-Handles/d p/B01FRJ7038/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1505705351&sr=8-7&keywords=carbon+ rasp

I bought this this thing for shaving silver so Sensei can make me a pendant, but the silver was a bit too hard of a metal. If I had a 5-ounce bar it would have been easier, but I was trying to shave a 1 gram bar bc I traded my other 5 ounce bar for an ounce for weed when I first got here. It was, like, really good bud. I paid $17/ounce for that silver. Paying with silver always gets you a discount, & a smile.

I had another 5 ounce bar of silver that I just plain cant remember what I did with it. I'm sure I traded it for something. Anyway, I either need a bigger bar of silver or a better tool so I can grind up a couple ounces of silver to send to Sensei for him to make me a silver pendant. I love all his stuff. The orgonite I sleep w/ is still the $75 amethyst hhg he made me that was my very first piece I owned before I could gather the materials to make my own. And I put his 24k gold nano pyramid under my bed.

I let my brother borrow the 24k gold nano pyramid and he said he couldn't sleep around it and it gave him a headache and he put it as far away in his house as he possibly could. Weird, huh? He finally mailed it up here to me for my bday. And I love sensei's pendant. It made my heart flutter when I first put it on. I want one just like it in silver except using silver dust from ingot- NOT wimpy silver leaf. I want a whole ounce of silver dust in my pendant n ain't nobody can make'em like Sensei. The rasp would work great for gold, being a softer metal, but for silver I think I need one of these maybe:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-x-36-inch-belt-6-inch-disc-sander -97181.html
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